ClutchCalcs

Construction

Post Hole Concrete Calculator

Setting fence posts, deck posts, or mailbox posts means digging holes, dropping in posts, and pouring concrete around them. The two ways to mess this up are not enough concrete (post wobbles within a year) or way too much concrete (you spend $200 extra at the store and break your back hauling sacks you didn't need). This calculator computes the actual volume of concrete needed per hole — subtracting the post's volume — and returns bag count for both 60-lb and 80-lb fast-setting concrete mixes. Multiply by your hole count to get the total order.

60 lb bags per hole

Total 60 lb bags
Cu ft per hole
80 lb bags total

How the math works

Volume of concrete per hole = hole volume – post volume.

  • Hole volume = π × (diameter/2)² × depth, all in feet.
  • Post volume = post width² × depth (assumes square post, e.g., 4x4 = 4" × 4").
  • Bag yields: a 60-lb bag of mixed concrete = 0.45 cubic feet. An 80-lb bag = 0.6 cu ft. Fast-setting Quikrete (orange bag) = same yields, faster cure.

Worked example: a 10"-diameter × 36"-deep hole around a 4x4 post. Hole volume = π × (5/12)² × 3 = 1.64 cu ft. Post volume = (4/12)² × 3 = 0.33 cu ft. Concrete needed = 1.31 cu ft = 3 bags of 60-lb (1.35 cu ft, close enough) or 2.2 bags of 80-lb (round up to 3 for the realistic single-post order). For a 50-ft fence with 14 posts: 42 bags of 60-lb — a full pallet from Lowe's.

Hole sizing rules of thumb

  • Hole diameter = 3x post width. 4x4 post → 10"-12" diameter hole (use a 12" power auger or an 8" auger plus widening). 6x6 post → 16" hole.
  • Hole depth = 1/3 of total post length, plus below the frost line. A 6-ft fence uses 8-ft posts buried 30-36". A 4-ft fence uses 6-ft posts buried 24-30".
  • Frost line depth varies by region: 24-30" in the Mid-Atlantic and South, 36-48" in the Midwest and Northeast, 48-60" in the upper Midwest, Maine, and most of Canada.
  • Below ground line, leave 4-6" of gravel under the post before setting in concrete — lets water drain off the bottom of the post instead of pooling and rotting it.

How to use this calculator

  1. Hole diameter: width of the hole you'll dig in inches (10" is typical for 4x4 posts).
  2. Hole depth: total depth in inches, typically 30-48 depending on frost line.
  3. Post size: nominal width in inches (4 for 4x4, 6 for 6x6).
  4. Number of holes: total post count for your project.
  5. Output: bags per hole, total bags for the project (60-lb and 80-lb), and cubic feet of concrete per hole.

Common scenarios

100-ft wood privacy fence, 14 posts (4x4), 10" hole × 36" deep. Roughly 3 bags of 60-lb fast-setting per hole × 14 posts = 42 bags. A full pallet from the home center is 56 bags (great per-bag price) — buy the pallet and have leftover for repairs or future projects.

20-ft x 20-ft deck, 9 posts (6x6), 12" hole × 48" deep. Hole volume = 3.14 cu ft. Post volume = 1.0 cu ft. Concrete = 2.14 cu ft per hole = 5 bags of 60-lb or 4 bags of 80-lb per hole. 9 posts × 4 (80-lb) = 36 bags of 80-lb.

Mailbox post replacement, 1 post (4x4), 9" hole × 24" deep. Hole = 1.06 cu ft, post = 0.22 cu ft, concrete = 0.84 cu ft = 2 bags of 60-lb fast-set. Pour it in dry (Quikrete fast-set method), add water from a milk jug per the bag instructions, walk away. Set in 30 minutes.

FAQ

Do I need to pre-mix the concrete? +
Fast-setting concrete (Quikrete Fast-Setting, Sakrete Fast-Setting, etc., orange bags) is designed to be poured dry into the hole, then watered from the top. Pour dry mix to fill the hole, slowly add 1 gallon of water per 50-lb bag, wait 20-40 minutes for it to set. For non-fast-setting concrete (standard gray bags), you must mix in a wheelbarrow or mixer with proper water ratio first.
How long until I can hang the gate or attach fence rails? +
Fast-setting: 4 hours minimum for non-load (rails, fence pickets); 24 hours for gates and anything with side-load. Standard concrete: 24-48 hours minimum, full strength in 7 days. For a critical heavy gate, wait the full 7 days even on fast-set — you only set the post once.
Should I crown the top of the concrete? +
Yes — the top of the concrete around the post should slope away from the post (about 1" higher at the post, sloping down to grade at the hole edge). This sheds water away from the post-to-concrete joint, which is where rot starts.
Do I need rebar in a post hole? +
For most residential fence and deck posts: no. The post itself and the concrete bond carry the load. For tall posts in wind-load applications (8-ft+ fence in hurricane territory), one piece of #4 rebar in the concrete adds tensile reinforcement.
Concrete or just gravel around fence posts? +
Concrete sets faster and gives better immediate rigidity. Gravel-only sets allow water to drain away from the post and can outlast concrete in wet soils — some pros prefer gravel-set for wood fence posts. For deck posts (heavier loads, gates, structural): always concrete. For low non-structural fence: gravel-only is defensible.
What about a Surface Bonded post like Postech or DIY ground-screw? +
Helical ground screws (Postech, Techno Metal Post) are a no-dig alternative — a steel screw threads into the ground and you bolt the post to a saddle plate on top. Cost is $40-100 per post installed but eliminates concrete and dig labor. Good for decks on uneven ground; overkill for most fences.
Can I set a post in concrete in winter? +
Above 40°F: yes, fast-setting works fine. Below freezing: the water in the mix can freeze before it cures, weakening the set. Use cold-weather accelerator additives or wait for warmer weather. Quikrete makes a winter formulation rated to 20°F that's worth the premium if you're working in cold.
Why is my fence post sinking after 2 years? +
Either the hole was too shallow (didn't reach frost line), the concrete poured around it didn't bond well (water below the post pushed up by freeze-thaw), or the post itself was set without gravel underneath and rotted at the bottom. Pull it, redig deeper, add gravel under the post, repour. Frost heave is brutal on undersized post holes.